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Review: A Savoury Twist on a British Classic: Afternoon Cheese at Brasserie Max
London’s Afternoon Tea scene is one of the most competitive in the world, with grand hotels and elegant restaurants constantly reinventing the beloved British tradition. Yet hidden inside the stylish Covent Garden Hotel, Brasserie Max has managed to create something that feels genuinely original. Its Afternoon Cheese experience takes everything people love about Afternoon Tea: the beautiful presentation, the indulgent courses and relaxed atmosphere, and transforms it into an imaginative celebration of exceptional British cheese.
What immediately makes Afternoon Cheese stand out is how thoughtfully the menu has been crafted. Rather than simply replacing cakes with cheese, the kitchen completely reimagines the structure of Afternoon Tea itself. Every course feels sophisticated yet carefully balanced, showcasing some of Britain’s finest artisan cheeses sourced from Neal’s Yard Dairy.

One of the standout items from the savoury pastries is the Hafod Cheddar Welsh rarebit doughnut, which perfectly captures the comforting richness of traditional Welsh rarebit inside a light, fluffy doughnut. The deep savoury flavour of the cheddar is elevated with Worcestershire sauce, creating something wonderfully indulgent without ever feeling heavy. Equally memorable is the Colston Bassett Stilton éclair with pickled walnuts and chives. It delivers all the elegance of a classic French éclair but replaces sweetness with a rich, salty depth.

The Ragstone and caramelised onion macaron is another highlight, balancing tangy goat’s cheese with subtle sweetness. Meanwhile, the Baron Bigod served on malt and prune loaf introduces a more rustic and earthy flavour profile, adding warmth and richness to the overall experience. Every bite demonstrates just how versatile cheese can be when treated with the same level of precision and creativity normally reserved for fine pâtisserie.
Even the traditional scone course receives a brilliant savoury reinvention. Instead of plain scones served with clotted cream and jam, guests are presented with warm Montgomery’s Cheddar scones accompanied by goat’s curd, caramelised onion jam, and fragrant chive oil. It still provides the comforting familiarity expected from Afternoon Tea while introducing a deeper and more indulgent flavour profile that cheese lovers will absolutely appreciate.

What makes Afternoon Cheese particularly impressive is that, despite its novelty, it never feels gimmicky. The menu remains elegant and beautifully balanced from beginning to end. The final course is a delicate Westcombe Ricotta cheesecake paired with poached rhubarb that gently reintroduces sweetness while remaining true to the overall cheese-focused concept. Paired with a pot of perfectly brewed tea or a glass of English sparkling wine, the experience feels indulgent, sophisticated, and distinctly British.

Brasserie Max also serves a more traditional Afternoon Tea menu, which provides an interesting comparison between classic and contemporary interpretations of the experience. The classic Afternoon Tea delivers everything one would expect from a luxurious London offering: delicate finger sandwiches filled with smoked salmon and cream cheese, coronation chicken, cucumber and dill, egg and cress, and roast beef with horseradish. The pastries lean into elegant sweetness with items such as raspberry, lychee and rose macarons, pistachio salted caramel éclairs, Opera cake, and tropical fruit tarts. Traditional scones with clotted cream and preserves complete the experience in timeless fashion.
While the traditional Afternoon Tea is beautifully executed and ideal for first-time visitors seeking a quintessentially British experience, Afternoon Cheese feels far more distinctive. The classic menu focuses on elegance and familiarity, whereas Afternoon Cheese introduces a bold savoury creativity that feels modern yet still deeply comforting. Rather than relying on sweetness and delicate pastries, it celebrates richness, texture, and umami in a way that feels refreshingly different within London’s Afternoon Tea scene.
What Brasserie Max has achieved is remarkably clever. It has managed to preserve the ritual, sophistication, and indulgence associated with Afternoon Tea while completely reinventing the flavour experience. Afternoon Cheese feels luxurious without being pretentious, creative without becoming excessive, and comforting while still offering something entirely unexpected.
For cheese lovers especially, this is one of the most exciting Afternoon Tea experiences currently available in London. It proves that Afternoon Tea can evolve beyond tradition while still remaining elegant, indulgent, and unmistakably British. Whether you choose the classic Afternoon Tea or the wonderfully inventive Afternoon Cheese, Brasserie Max delivers an experience that feels thoughtful, refined, and genuinely memorable.
Please click here for more details and to book Afternoon Tea at Brasserie Max
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